Hakodate - More Spectacular View

My first stop in Hokkaido Island, Northern Japan it was the city of Hakodate (函館 = Box + Building) located just on the other side of the ocean separating the two islands. As the crow flies it's only about 100km from Aomori but the train takes a more scenic route in order to cross the ocean at the narrowest point. This connection between the islands is done via the Seikan Tunnel. The name (Seikan) comes from joining the first characters of (青森) Aomori and Hakodate (函館). The reason it's not pronounced Aohako is due to the fact that each kanji as a number of different possible readings (or pronunciations). The two main types are the "On Reading", derived from Chinese, and the "Kun Reading" which is derived from Japanese. "Ao" and "hako" are both Kun readings while "Sei" and "Kan" are On readings. The Seikan Tunnel is significant as it's currently the longest and deepest operating rail tunnel in the world. The tunnel reaches a depth of 240 meters below sea-level (140 meters below the seabed) and it's total length is 53.8km (with a 23.3km undersea portion). All up and through the tunnel it's a 160km journey from Aomori to Hakodate by train, and since there's no more shinkansen the trip takes just over two hours. 

Seikan Tunnel 

The first train to Hakodate didn't leave until 8:24 for some reason so I had plenty of time to have my free breakfast in that day!. I went down just after 7am (around 7:06am) and found there was a massive line!. I guess everyone had been waiting until breakfast. I'm not really sure why they don't start earlier. After breakfast I had a little bit of a look at the Aomori morning markets. They were located under a shopping center in a sort of basement level. The markets were alright although not fantastic. Lots of fish and crabs and seafood. There was some other produce as well and I bought a massive apple from one of the stalls there. After the markets I made my way to Aomori station and caught our train. There's two types of Limited Express trains to Hakodate, Hakucho (白鳥 = Hakuchou = White + Bird = Swan) and Super Hakucho. I don't think there's much difference but I wanted the super because it sounds better. I'd just had the regular plain old Hakucho though. One thing I did notice though was that the Super Hakucho that I got from Shin-amori a few days ago had maps on the backs of the seat with Seikan tunnel crossing times marked in. The Hakucho did not have these and I was a bit miffed about it as I didn't want to miss the entrance into the tunnel. Anyway the train ride was fun and offered many nice views of the ocean. There were also lots of tunnels before the main one! I kept being ticked as I wasn't really sure if the I were in at the time was the real deal! Some of the smaller ones were rather long too. I realized after about 8 minutes into the real one that it must be the Seikan tunnel. The tunnel itself was pretty uneventful. Just like any other tunnel I guess. At one point though I remember seeing an underground station flash by which was exciting.

There's two underground stations within the Seikan Tunnel although only one is currently operational. Yoshioka-Kaitei Station on the north side serviced its final train in 2006 and was the deepest railway station in the world located 149.5 meters below sea level. A few trains a day still stop at Tappi-Kaitei Station which is located on the south side of the tunnel and is connected to the surface by an underground cable car. I'd really like to visit this station as it contains a museum and it's cool that it's so deep. I fear I will not get the chance though as it will be shut down around 2015 when the Shinkansen starts operating through the tunnel. Once this happens they will continue to maintain at least one of their original functions as emergency escape routes. After I'd exited the tunnel I'm pretty sure I saw the Hokkaido Shinkansen under construction. I arrived at Hakodate on time at around 10:30am. Just like in Aomori the next train was waiting but this time bound for Sapporo. That was not I though so and I'd exited the station and after getting our bearings, crossed the tram tracks and made my way to the hotel. It was another comfort and since it was before check in time I just stored my luggage.

Fort Goryokaku

I thought I'd head to Fort Goryokaku (in the north east) first and then return back past from my hotel and continue onto the red brick warehouses, Motomachi and finally Mount Hakodate (in the south west). To get to For Goryokaku I'd rode the tram from Hakodate station to the Goryokaku Koen Mae stop. When I got off I asked for a day pass from the driver. The pass came with a lot of information and little booklets, apparently they enable you to receive discounts and such at tourist attractions. It was about a 600 meter walk from the tram station to Fort Goryokaku. Before having a look at the fort itself I went to Goryokaku Tower. This 107 meter tall tower was built in 2006 and offers views of the fort, Hakodate and the ocean and mountains in the distance. It wasn't very busy when I went in so I paid the 840 yen administration and went straight up. I'd showed our tram pass when I bought my ticket and received a complimentary post card each. Goryokaku Fort is a huge citadel built in the shape of a star. It was constructed around 150 years ago in order to defend Hakodate against western powers. It also later served a part in the civil war between the Meiji government and the Shogunate. Since 1910 however it has been a public park and due to over a thousand cherry blossom trees it is a very popular flower viewing (Hanami) location. The views of the fort from the tower were amazing. It was massive island of green and blue in the white cityscape and you could easily see the star shape.

The tower had slanting windows so you could learn over and look straight down with ease. I love how the tower was built for the sole purpose of providing view of the fort and Hakodate. I thought that it was a good advertising opportunity they took advantage of there!. After descending the tower I had a bit of a look around in the souvenir shop at the bottom, the tower mascot was really cute! It was basically just the tower with arms and legs- his antenna was a particularly endearing charm point. I regret not buying one of the plush toys. They even had a little bio on his likes and dislikes. I left the tower and walked the short distance to the fort, looking back at the tower I found that I couldn't see the antenna! That was a bit disappointing. To get into the fort I had to cross a bridge over a moat. Just before the bridge and off the path a little bit there was a shop playing music which had a sign saying "貸しボート" (Boat rental). I wanted to give it a go but I were too scared to go in and ask as no one else was renting any of the boats. So I continued across the bridge and into the fort. The old magistrates office is located in the center and although I didn't go in and I had a look at it from outside. I continued walking all the way to the back where I climbed up to the top of the rim of the earth wall surrounding the fort. I followed the path up there all the way back around to the front entrance (except in places where the road cut through). A number of places seemed pretty dangerous as it was a steep drop down to the water below.

Motomachi Heights District and The Old Hakodate Public Hall

Next stop was the Motomachi district which reached via a ridiculously steep hill. I tried gritting my teeth and running up it for a bit but I must've been slightly dehydrated as that gave me a headache. When we were about half way up a big tour group appeared at the top of the hill and watched me to struggle up!. Once I got to the top of the hill I turned right into a nice looking street that appeared empty. As I walked down it though it exploded with vendors hawking their food. There was one lady trying to sell me a hot milk! The last thing I wanted! I were all sweaty! "Atatakai gyuunyuu, ikakadesu kaaaaaaa?" While pulling it out of where it was being kept warm and pointing to it with her hand like they do on the telly. I didn't have a heap of time so I thought that I'd look in just one of the western houses. The Old Hakodate Public Hall. I had to wear slippers inside and they were really slippery on the shiny wooden floors! I was a bit worried I'd break my necks walking down the stairs. It was nice inside and there were explanations on what the rooms were used for in English.

You could go out on the balcony and when I went up there there were some Japanese girls done up in make up and who had old fashioned western style dresses on. They were looking mournfully out to sea like they were waiting on some lover at war or something and having their photos taken. I looked at one of them though she broke her pose and gave an embarrassed smile. When I went back down stairs I saw you could hire the dresses and pay to get the make up done to you. Not really sure why they all wanted to look so sad though. While I were at the Old Public Hall someone came up and talked to me. I think he started talking to me in English but I continued in Japanese. He asked me where I were from and was excited that I were from Malaysia("Watashi wa Mareshia kara desu"). He asked me how long I'd been here/japan?, how long I were staying?, if I were going to see more of Hokkaido?, what other places I were going to see in japan?, if I were students?, and where I learnt japanese?. Since it was nearly sunset it was time to leave Motomachi and head to Mount Hakodate! I walked back along the narrow street and this time there was a man very unenthusiastically trying to sell me the hot milk again. When I got to the ropeway station I saw that there was a heap of taxis lined up outside but when I went in I found that it was completely deserted. The cable cars were not moving either! I was looking at a sign when someone (I think she was cleaning) came up and said that it was not operating.

Mount of Hakodate

I started climbing the mountain straight away and for some reason there was a conductor lady on the bus who was narrating the whole trip. Along the way I could see the view from the bus already and it was looking pretty good!. I also saw a couple walking up the road and I wondered if it was because of the ropeway/bus not coming. It was a long/steep way to walk and the girl did not look happy at all. Since I arrived just before dust I could enjoy the view both during the day and the night as well as get to see the sunset!. The views from Mount Hakodate are considered one of Japan's three best night views and even during the day I could see why!. The ocean was wide and blue and had a number of ships on and it was really cool how it surrounded Hakodate on either side of a narrow strip of land. The mountains in the background were good too. There was a building (attached to the rope way station) that I had a look inside of but it was really crowded and there was much inside apart from a restaurant and a souvenir shop. I really wanted hot chips for some reason but the restaurant was full and they didn't sell them anyway. I went back outside and since I neglected to bring a jumper I was freezing!.

There's an old military fort nearby that I were considered visiting although since it was getting pretty dark and cold I decided not to visit. There wouldn't be much to do there in the dark. The building that I went into before had number of different outdoor levels and I were surprised going up as each time I thought that I were at the top that I found another level!. While I waiting for sunset I watched a young girl playing a Jyan ken pon (Scissors paper rock), with her mum. Whenever one of them won they'd go up the stairs and when they lost they'd go down the stairs. They kept playing for quite a while until the girl finally won! They both came close at times and it was a pretty intense game!. Sunset was amazing and soon after Hakodate lit up with millions of lights!. It was really pretty and while we took some photos- it's impossible to capture in a photo. One thing that contributed to the whole experience was how close I were to the actual city. Many other mountain views of cities are actually a fair way from the city but I felt like I were just above it. It had also suddenly become incredibly crowded! The outside levels attached to the building had become completely full of people. It was completely packed. Thankfully the ground level had relatively few people and I enjoyed the view from there.

The Hakodate Morning Market

The Hakodate Morning Fish Market is a must-see attraction for anyone visiting the city of Hakodate in the southern area of Hokkaido. The Hakodate Morning Market is located south of JR Hakodate Station, and as its name indicates, has many shops operating in the morning from 5.00 a.m.,(6 a.m. during the winter) to noon. The roots of the market are in farmers selling their products in the plaza in front of the station after World War Ⅱ. The market subsequently moved to its present location and developed into its current form. There are now over 450 shops mainly handing crabs, salmon, salmon roe, and other fresh seafood caught in the ocean around Hokkaido, but also including vegetables, fruits, dried goods, clothing and a wide variety of items. Visitors can enjoy meals made from fresh ingredients at restaurants in the market, with a bowl of rice tipped with sashimi!. The market is always very bustling, with over 1.8 million shoppers visiting every year. Markets like the Tsukiji Fish Market (found in most guidebooks for Tokyo) don’t seem to like tourists. Let’s face it, we ask a lot of questions, get in the way, and occasionally interfere with “regular” customers. The Hakodate Morning Fish Market, on the other hand, is specifically for tourists. They like talking to foreigners, love explaining their products, and don’t mind foreigners poking around the booth. With around one million tourists in the summer alone, the place is always bustling (while rarely being “over crowded”). The market opens at 5am and closes in the early afternoon, just after the lunch rush. They sell dried goods, fresh produce, fresh fish, live fish, and omiyage souvenirs at very affordable prices.

The donburi rice bowls vary in size, portion, and quality. Some of the shops advertise very cheap (albeit somewhat poor quality) donburi rice bowls for only 500yen. You can get salmon, ikura fish eggs, or tuna on top of rice. I recommend the ikura fish egg donburi rice bowls. While the average international tourist is unable to buy fresh fish or produce to send back home (import/export restrictions), they can enjoy fresh fruit and ice cream at the market. Hokkaido is famous throughout Japan for their high quality and deliciously fresh milk. The ice cream is made fresh from Hokkaido dairy cows and tastes heavenly. The shopkeepers at the Hakodate Morning Market peddle a variety of ice creams ranging from normal (vanilla and chocolate) to “Japanese” (black sesame and melon). If you are lactose intolerant (like me) you can instead munch on some delicious, fresh fruit – especially green melon. Japanese melons are very expensive; at the market you can see single melons selling for as much as 5000yen. My favorite part of the Hakodate Morning Fish Market was the ika squid fishing section. All throughout the market, you can see squid swimming in small tanks. When I asked a shopkeeper about it, he laughed and told me “Ika squid is best served fresh.” Little did I know that “served fresh” meant “served still wiggling.” For 1000yen, some shopkeepers will hand you a pole with a barbed end and let you fish for ika. Fishing itself is easy. You are supposed to hook the barbed end to the frontal, triangular section of the squid and pull upward. I caught one on my first try. The morning fish market is marketed toward foreign travelers. Naturally, they have some great souvenirs, ranging from dried fish to chocolates. I recommend picking up a pack of dried fish for a loved on back home (or so you can just snack on it in your hotel room like I did).

Supposed I want to visit the red brick house but due to time limitation & strong snow, I had to give up. I then need to proceed to next destination, Wakkanai. I had my lunch at the JR station. After the lunch, I went back hotel to collect the luggage, since the distance is very near. I waited at the station together with other backpackers. I then taken sometimes while waiting the time for boarding to take photos outside the station. Strong wind & snow made me feel so happy & excited. I love cold weather so much. The next Destination, Wakkanai the northernmost city in Japan.

Vladivostok - "Possess the East"

After travelling from Kamchatka I spent another night in Khabarovsk before catching the train the next evening to Vladivostok. I used the day to update my blog and catch up on some things on the internet – scary how used we got to the internet, 2 weeks without it and you can spend a whole day catching up on the most important things. After an unspectacular overnight train ride, I got off at my final destination: Vladivostok! I cannot really describe what I felt in that moment – something between extreme satisfaction, happiness and surrealism. For so long I was dreaming of doing this trip, getting off the train in Vladivostok I realized: I made it, I actually did :) I took the obligatory picture of the final mark of the Trans-Siberian: Moscow – Vladivostok 9288km. With all my extra rounds I probably travelled well over 10’000km. 

Vladivostok can be translated to "possess the east" and is a port city on the pacific and the end of the Trans-Siberian rail line. It houses the Russian pacific fleet in the golden horn bay and was closed off to foreigners during the Soviet era, reopening again in 1991. It is sometimes called the "San Francisco of Russia" due to it being on the ocean and the hilly area on which most of the city sits. The city is the midst of a construction and development boom with a couple of bridges, several large scale hotels and new roads in the works for the APEC summit the city is set to host in 2012.

In Russia all the signs are in their script, making transportation and navigation, at times a challenge. When in doubt we asked someone. More than likely they didn't speak English, but we learned the phrase 'nappi-shite' which means please 'write this.' Communication was challenging, but a smile keeps everyone happy enough, even to the tough and unapproachable looking! The people we interacted with were friendly and helpful. The lodge owners were more than happy to have us, some were even amazed at how we'd managed to travel the distances without speaking Russian. Independent foreign tourists outside Moscow, were few and only seen in the hostels. They passed on a few good tips and hints to help us along our way, like the time we rented a rest room at a train station. The hostel workers helped us with planning our next leg of our journeys too.

Fashion here is somewhat questionable. Poverty is evident in the quality of dress, infrastructure is developing as in all countries economic diversity of the people and its land is present when travelling around. The cities are city like, with shops and bussling people going about their hectic lives. Suburbs are typical of that of housing areas some in need of development. The rural countryside areas, are that of my interest as you can see more genuine culture and ways of life occurring. It was interesting to see Russian designed roof tops and gardens full of vegetables, displaying a relatively self-sufficient life styles.

Russian food, i am still questioning. What is traditional? I ask myself as we can't read the menus! We've eaten lots of potato pies, which are really mashed potato in a dough like capsule, they fill a hole when hungry. They're sold everywhere! When staying at a lodge in Lake Baikal, we were fed a variety of food. Pasta, cheese topped rice and cold stew for breakfast, fish for tea. Our favorite being pancakes with homemade raspberry jam! I had an amazing pancake in Irkutsk, with condensed milk and walnuts - yummy! Russians drink a lot of beer and vodka. There is always glass to be found on the towns pavements and in the parks. Frequently you'll see someone drinking and the odd drunk in the cities.

Russia is a sort of time-warpy place. The city is the same as any other city in the west but it's like the people decided the 80s were so great they'd just stick with that. You see lots of girls in ripped-up jeans and stone-washed denim jackets, but the height of female fashion appears to be based on “80s action-movie hooker”. The mens' fashions aren't so obviously 80s but there are still lots of gold chains, mesh T-shirts and crushed-velvet jumpsuits. The Russian visa is a fun one. hostel entrance pretty welcoming I think you will agree. It took me six weeks just to get all the documents I needed before application. It is also one of those countries which has different visa application rules for different countries.

Walking around Vladivostok is really nice, particularly on a sunny day like this one. Students that haven't left the city are out and about looking hipster and the city has a San Francisco feel to it. Nearby are some war memorials and the submarine musuem which is fun to explore as you literally walk through a used to be functioning Russian submarine.Its an S56 built in 1936. S-type submarines (S for Stalinist) were recognized as the most effective ships of World War 2, as effective as 14 German ships. Moving on towards Vladivostok was interesting. It was unbearably hot, the sky was blue and clear. Every time I’ve been blessed with good weather. Somewhere, in Ussurisk, the weather changed. In one second it went from being warm and sunny to misty, cold and foggy. Fog is the usual weather of Vladivostok, I heard. It is a thick version, that would be every still-photographers wet dream.

Out in the country side the pace is relaxed. People have their backyard gardens and sell the produce on the side of the road. You can still see glass insulators on the hydro poles, people cutting grass with scythes, jungle mat fencing, and water comes from what we would Round Bales and Wishing Well.Round Bales and Wishing Well. Round Bales and Wishing Well. It gets busy in the evening.call 'wishing wells' They sell a small single furrow plow - it is really just an engine on wheels like what is used in small rice fields - ideal for the large backyard gardens. And notice all of the wild flowers in the fields.

Vladivostok is a beautiful, busy port city, with pre-Soviet style buildings down town, and lots of Chinese tourists from just over the border. Everyone seems to be getting married.

Enjoy a refreshing time at the Tokyo riverside

The SUMIDA RIVER, Tokyo Bay and has Shitamachi (old downtown) areas on each side of its banks, flows through the northeast part of Tokyo. In times long past it served as a place of relaxation and as water for domestic use during the Edo period. It also has deep connections with peoples’ lives as a waterway that is tied to the economy. Currently, the river area is being developed as the “Sumida River Terrace” to create a new place for local citizens to relax. The Sumida River flows through Tokyo, running 17 miles (27 kilometers) around the city and passing under 26 bridges. It branches from the Arakawa River at Iwabuchi and flows into Tokyo Bay. The river is a great place to go on a boat cruise passing under the colorful bridges, viewing the Tokyo Skytree and Tokyo Tower, going past Shinto shrines, and getting closer to Tokyo’s river born heritage where the vibrant river systems served as the arteries through which its commerce flowed, from the Edo period to the present day.

Sumida River boat ride to Odaiba. After your time in Asakusa, walk over to the Sumida River by the Azuma Bridge to pick up a Suijo-Bus boat; the swoopy silver futuristic-looking craft will take you for a ride down the Sumida to the riverfront entertainment and shopping complex at Odaiba, which is quite a contrast to Asakusa. This terrace, which has been paved beautifully, is a place where many people enjoy walking and jogging. The flower beds inside the terrace are maintained by volunteers from the different regions, and during each season it’s possible to see locals having lunch while gazing at these colorful flowers. Events are also held at fixed intervals, including local festivals in areas such as Ryogoku, Akashi, and Hakozaki. Each time these lively events are held, they are attended by more and more people.

The “Super embankments” are also being installed together with the terrace. These broad levees are made of embankments with gradual slopes. The terrace and its rear embankments help ensure safety in the case of a major earthquake or flood, and also make people feel more affection for the river. For that reason, these embankments are planned to be installed along the entire Sumida River. Riding the water bus that connects Asakusa with Hinode Pier allows you to view the Sumida River Terrace and super embankments from the river’s surface. In this way you can discover new aspects of the Sumida River while listening to information from the boat’s guide about famous places and the bridges spanning the river that are visible from the boat. By the time you’re ready to leave Odaiba it’s probably night, so for some great views hop on the Yurikamome unmanned monorail. It will take you from Odaiba across the Sumida under a dazzlingly bright Rainbow Bridge, ending with some Blade Runner-ish scenery as you are deposited at the Shiodome subway station. There are restaurants, video arcades like none you’ve ever seen, tons of shopping, lots of manga-related places and every Gundam reference you can imagine.

Each year on the last Saturday in July, The Sumidagawa Fireworks Festival takes place. The festival is a revival of the celebrations that were held during the Edo period. Similar events take place at same time of year at other locations throughout Japan. The great summer festival atmosphere that accompanies the fireworks draws close to a million celebrants, many of whom are dressed in yukatas. Folks stroll around in Asakusa, especially around Sensoji Temple, and patronize the food vendors and game stalls lining the streets. In addition, many of restaurants in the area provide outdoor seating where you can enjoy delicious food while watching the fireworks.

The best places to view the fireworks display are right along the Sumida River itself. One area stretches from the Sakura Bridge to the Kototoi Bridge while another is located downstream of the Komagata Bridge to the Umaya Bridge. For most tourists, I would only recommend visiting the Asakusa to Ryogoku section of this river. The main reason is that the entire river is long and that’s the only section which would be interesting to a casual tourist. Even for residents, I wouldn’t recommend visiting this area unless they lived in the nearby area. If you are a runner and looking for a nice place to run, and you happen to be staying in Asakusa or somewhere near the river, I highly recommend that you go for a run if you have the time. It’s a wonderful experience and being able to run part of the area is worth it. It’s better than trying to fight your way through traffic and trying to avoid getting hit by cars on the regular streets.