Kamakura: Back to the Shogunate Period's

It was very hard planning my trip to Kamakura. The more I read about it, the more I realized there was to see and do, but I did not want to feel rushed and miss things by going too fast. So I decided to go to several of the major sites and really enjoying in detail. I have only been in Japan for a few months. Getting there was surprisingly easy. Taking the subway from Asakusabashi to Sengakuji Station and changing the platform to taking Keikyu Line train in same station to Yokohama than taking the Yokosuka line train the whole way to Kamakura just one hour, the latter was just an hour ride with views of Tokyo Bay on one side and hills on the other. Upon arriving at the station, I've found a tourist map in English and headed to the Tsurugaoka Hachiman Shrine.

Though technically a religious place, the Kamakura Shoguns would conduct a lot of their business there, under the watchful eye of the deity. They prayed to him for success in battle, so it was definitely an important place in the tumultuous past. Now it was an impressive, ornate building on the top of a hill, still showing the power and wealth of the ruling class after so many centuries. It was enjoyable to take my time looking at everything, and at a faster pace probably would have missed a lot. For example, I felt saddened to see a stump by the stairs which had been a ginkgo tree. Stopping to see, I'd found out that it was the site of a famous assassination centuries ago, and that the tree itself was so old and venerable that it was worshiped as having a soul of its own. Upon closer inspection, there were new shoots growing out of it; it was not dead despite having been blown down in a severe storm in 2010.

Kamakura (鎌倉市 Kamakura-shi) is a small coastal town located in Kanagawa Prefecture, south of Tokyo. Home to an impressive number of temples, shrines and historical monuments, it makes a good day trip destination if you’re interested in Kamakura’s beautiful architectural heritage. By train, it takes about an hour to get from Tokyo Station to Kamakura Station, or about 30 minutes if you’re leaving from Yokohama Station. The first thing I learnt when I got there was that Kamakura is a surprisingly popular tourist destination. There heaps of people everywhere! It also seemed like a popular school excursion destination. I saw perhaps six or seven large groups of students from different schools wandering the town. But of course, why wouldn’t this place be anything but popular? Lying amid gorgeous wooded hills and dotted with ancient Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, Kamakura is often called the Kyoto of Eastern Japan.

Kamakura has a great number of historically significant Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, some of them over a thousand years old. Kotoku-in, a Buddhist temple of the Jōdo-shū sect, is famous for its monumental outdoor bronze Buddha statue. Standing at an impressive 18.35 metres tall, it is the second tallest bronze Buddha statue in Japan. Cast in 1252, the giant Buddha was once housed inside a large temple hall. However, in the 15th century, a tsunami destroyed the temple. The statue managed to survive and has remained outdoors ever since. Another attraction is the main Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine. Founded by Minamoto Yoritomo (the first shogun of the Kamakura government), it is said to be the most famous shrine in Kamakura. During the New Year holidays, it is reported that more than a million people visit the shrine every year.

I had a great time walking from place to place, some places were quiet close together which was handy. The next stop was Kencho-Ji Temple. This is the first ranked temple of the five great Zen Temples in Kamakura. The temple was built over five. The Tsurugaoka Hachiman Shrine, Largest Shrine in Kamakura years and completion was in 1253. The Temple founder was Rankei Doryu, a chinese Zen master. The following quote demonstrates the nature of his Zen teaching.

Next stop, Meigetsu-In, by far my favourite thing of the day. It has an amazing garden. There were elderly Japanese men and women sketching in there and beautiful trees and flowers. There is a Moon-shining teahouse, There is a Moon-shining teahouse, what they call a dry garden which expresses the buddhist view of the world. It was founded in 1160 and in 1256 it was chosen as the site for the construction of the Buddhist Temple Saimyoji. It is a place dedicated to Zenkoji worship, which is the main image of Kannon Bodhisattva, the deity of compassion. I stayed here for a long time just walking around and watching the Japanese people sketch. I was a truely beautiful place and I would recommend if you go to Kamakura to visit it.

It is a place dedicated to Zenkoji worship, which is the main image of Kannon Bodhisattva, the deity of compassion. I stayed here for a long time just walking around and watching the Japanese people sketch. I was a truely beautiful place and I would recommend if you go to Kamakura to visit it. By this stage of the day I have spent 4 hours looking at temple and I knew that was it for me on the Temple seen for one day. There were still other temples I wanted to see, so will be going back for that when the weather warms up so I can have a look at the beach. By this stage of the day I have spent 4 hours looking at temple and I knew that was it for me on the Temple seen for one day. There were still other temples I wanted to see, so will be going back for that when the weather warms up so I can have a look at the beach.

There were a lot of people there and my camera was about to go flat so I asked a Japanese man to take a photo for me. After what seemed like an eternity he finally took a photos so I thought but he had just moved around a lot trying to get the perfect shot just to turn the camera off. I didn't have the energy to wait for him to try again. So I found a younger Japanese girl to take a photo, she managed to take the shot but chopped the Buddha's head off. Then my camera completey died. So that's my photo me and the headless Buddha. I thought Japanese people were good at taking photos. I guess not on that day.

After a long day I headed back to the train and got back to my little town of Asabata. I will go again and see the reast of the temples I didnt see and check out the beach there, it is a must I think. Before leaving Kamakura, don’t forget to visit Zeniarai Benten. You will enter through a small tunnel carved into the rockface and there you can wash your money in the shrine. Just why would you wash your money? Because legend says you’ll double it! You’ll find many people washing the five-yen coin as it is considered lucky on its own because “go en” is Japanese for “five yen” and also “fate.” Therefore it’s the most common currency donated at shrines.

Kamikochi: The nestled deep in the Alps

Kamikochi seems worlds away from the urban sprawl most people associate with Japan. The air is fresh, the waters crystal clear, and the mountains majestic. The name can mean “high above earth” or “where the gods descended” and is apt both literally and figuratively. Located a little less than two hours from either Matsumoto or Takayama (both worthy of a visit), makes it a comfortable escape and return to the wild. Due to the increasing popularity of the national park, private vehicles are no longer allowed inside the resort, meaning the only means of vehicular access is limited to either bus or sanctioned taxis. This is more of a blessing than an inconvenience for those basking in the peacefulness of what many refer to as their favorite place in Japan.

In the Japanese Shinto religion mountains are considered sacred and, as such, have been revered and respected long before mountain climbing came to be thought of as “sport”. In fact, Japan still has many religious ceremonies which include climbing to the tops of sacred peaks for spiritual benefit. However, nowadays mountaineering in Japan is hugely popular and Kamikochi is considered hallowed ground to Japan’s serious mountain climbers. Anybody who has had the pleasure of climbing Mount Fuji in mid-summer surely understands just how fond the Japanese are to don a shiny new North Face jacket and head up a mountain with a few hundred of their closest friends. Mountain climbing has even recently made it’s manga debut in the massively popular 岳 (Gaku), which just happens to be set to the backdrop of Kamikochi.

At the bus terminal, there is a tourist information center where visitors can purchase pocket-sized maps of the area for 100 yen. There is also a rest area where you can plan your route while enjoying refreshments from one of the many nearby shops. Those who need a toilet are encouraged to show their appreciation for cleanliness by placing a tip in a box with a note stating the average amount is 100 yen. There are about seven other equally clean toilets scattered throughout the park that deny you this privilege, forcing the use of their facilities for free. Walking towards the azure waters of the Azusa River, it’s easy to see Kappabashi (not to be confused with the popular “Kitchen Town” in Tokyo), the most famous bridge in the area, and a popular landmark where many visitors like to take pictures. The view from there of the nearby mountains towering above is, in a word, stunning. Both sides of the bridge offer a number of accommodation and refreshment options.

This popular destination has seen many changes over the years. Even the kanji used to write Kamikochi have evolved over the years; 神河内、神合地、神降地、and finally 上高地. Tourists used to flock here by the thousands, driving their own cars in to the national park and parking just about anywhere they could, but now all car travel in to Kamikochi is restricted and travellers these days make their way by taxi or bus. This leaves nature free from the burden of hundreds of Toyotas coming through every day and also keeps the number of tourists down, especially overnighters.

A relaxed half-hour walk downstream brings you to the Hotaka and Tashiro bridges, which are joined by a small island. Another twenty minutes or so from there, either by a river or forest path, brings you to Taisho Pond, which was formed when nearby Mount Yake, an active volcano, erupted in 1915. The ever-present smoke plume coming out the top can serve as a reminder to be respectful of nature, especially in its most pristine state. Speaking of which, visitors are expected to leave only footprints, bringing all trash home with them (most opt for a rubbish bin in the nearest major town, but some, like my roommate, actually do maintain an impressive alter to the god of refuse in their house). 

Myojinbashi is the next bridge upstream from Kappabashi, and can be reached in about an hour by either a boardwalk across marshes and streams on the north side of the river, or via a footpath through a campsite with toilets on the south side. Keep your eyes open for macaques. Nearby Myojin Pond (entry ¥300) is a must-see. There are rest areas either side of the bridge with toilets and refreshments available. Another hour or so upstream, on the south side, is a grassy meadow dotted with elm trees. This used to be a pasture, but is now Tokusawa campsite. There are more lodging, toilet and refreshment opportunities here as well. For day-trippers, this would be a good place to turn around and head back to the bus terminal. Serious hikers staying in the area will want to continue on a few hours to the peaks.

Standing on Kamikochi’s famous Kappa Bridge and seeing a range of 3000 metre tall mountains is nothing short of awe inspiring, but mountains aren’t the only thing that Kamikochi has to offer. In the eerily calm of nearby Taisho Lake stands the withered remains of trees that survive from the 1915 volcanic blast that plugged up part of the Azusa River and formed this very pond. Equally exciting is walking through the dense forests on one of Kamikochi’s many footpaths, which will almost guarantee a visit from some of the region’s wildlife, including the popular Japanese macaque. And for anyone who does manage a bit of walking during their visit here, there are few things better than a dip in an onsen (Japanese hot spring) after a long hike!

There is plenty of gorgeous scenery to be enjoyed by all fitness levels, making Kamikochi a fantastic destination for all age groups. The usual outdoor common sense applies (stay on paths, don’t feed wildlings). Dressing in layers with waterproof gear is recommended as the weather can change from a warm sunny day to hail in a couple hours.

Kirigamine: The Marshland

The thick grass beneath the tent at my roadside encampment made for a sumptuously satisfying night’s sleep. No doubt two days of hard graft in the ledger helped as well. An hour or so later, packed and strolling down to the shores of Shirakaba-ko, I was relieved to have thrown in the towel and pitched the tent where I had. The authorised campsite turned out to be nothing more than a broad gravel pit at the side of the road and fair game for any of the local hoons. A bed of nails at a would have yielded a better night’s sleep. 

Kirigamine, shrouded in fog, rose above the township on the other side of Lake Shirakaba. I crossed a bridge and set about hunting out the street that would lead me up to the mountain trail and the summit dubbed Kurumayama. As it turned out the hike was merely a sorry slog through a massive ski complex that stretched all the way up to the summit itself.

On top the fogs rolled by, riding a strengthening wind and blocking any views down to the lake. In keeping with the raped and plundered theme gripping the mountain, something best described as an enormous black box with a white ball on top had been plonked up there with me. It was larger than your typical house. The ball, I’d suggest, the size of a front end loader. I assumed it was some kind of weather station. Though a portal to the fourth dimension seemed feasible. Dumping my pack I walked around it a couple of times and shot off a few snaps of the strange looking thing. It was all locked up and I was left to wonder if it was bigger on the inside than out.

Over at the summit marker I set up the camera on its mini tripod and posed a pose until the timer allowed a shot to fire off. Fifty-one done. I was knocking these mountains off like tin ducks at the fun fair. Forty-nine to go sounded pretty damn sweet. I walked off the less developed Western side of the peak, albeit along a service road leading to the top of the ski run. Kuruma-yama indeed. Northward bound yet again, I strolled the boardwalks lining the Yashima Marsh. The highland fogs had cleared allowing views across its golden grassed expanse and back to Kirigamine; autumn tints urging me ever onward.

From Yashima I stepped onto the smooth, pale grey tarmac of the Venus Line, a fancily monickered tourist road that wound through the high ground between Kirigamine and Utsukushigahara, the next mountain on my hitlist. I understood Utsukushi was equally as accessable as Kiri-ga-mine and, I feared, similarly accosted by the trappings of progress…

Okutama: The Forest Therapy

Okutama is the far west side of Tokyo where has lots of nature. There are many hiking courses, and most of them are one-day-trip distance from Tokyo Metro without car. Okutama is considered as the Oasis of Tokyo. Lake Okutama is one of popular spot in Okutama. It has many tourist attractions. In winter, unlike Tokyo cities, Okutama has snow and frozen waterfalls. Okutama is a two hour drive west from downtown Tokyo. The area is filled with beautifully aged trees, and has the largest number of them in the country. There are camping sites, hot springs and museums available. At a local center called Yamano-furusato-mura(山のふるさと村) you can experience pottery, carpentry, Soba noodle making and many other activities.

The Forest Therapy 

The forest has always been said to have a soothing effect on the human body. Japan's Forest Therapy Society (FTS) found in 2004 started their research to unravel this mystery. The Forest Therapy Total Project was launched the following year allowing cites and paths in Japan to be officially approved as forest therapy cites and therapy roads by the government after passing series of tests. It also allows people to acquire a license as forest therapists. So far, 53 locations in Japan are approved as therapy cites and roads. For those who plan to visit Tokyo, I would recommend the only forest approved in Tokyo; the Okutama forest. 

Scientists in Japan have been learning a lot in recent years about the relaxing effects of forests and trees on mental and physical health. Based on their findings, some local governments are promoting “forest therapy.” This means that forests can lower stress and make people feel at ease, he said, noting that findings in other physiological experiments, including fluctuations in heart beats and blood pressure, support this conclusion. Taking a walk in a forest, or “forest bathing” as it is sometimes called, can strengthen the immune system. 

Mount of Mitake: Musashi Shrine and Tozan Cable Car 

 Mount of Mitake

The Mount Mitake areas has many miles of trails connecting famous peaks, water falls, temples, scenic vistas and interesting geographic features. Some of the main trails include the steep trail from the base of the cable car to the top cable car station (about 60 to 90 minutes), the walk from the top cable car station to the shrine (20 to 30 minutes), the walk from the shrine to Nanayo Water Fall (30 to 45 minutes), and the scenic loop back to the temple from the water fall, past some tengu statues (45 to 60 minutes). Another famous area is the Rock Garden, not far from Nanayo Water Fall.

Musashi Shrine

Prior to the establishment of Shinto in Japan, Shugendo spiritual mystical religion was very popular. Shugendo centered on this mountain and several others like nearby Takao-san. Followers of Shugendo, known for mountain and nature worship, believe in the bond between nature and humanity. Shugendo legends tell of spirits spirits called Tengu, often symbolized as one with a long, phallic nose and one with a bird's beak on its face. Nearby the top of Mitake-san there is a small temple with statues of these famous tengu. The tiny temple is located on a rocky knob between Nanayo Water Fall and the Rock Garden. The only way to the top of the rocky outcropping is to grab hold of the steel chain to balance yourself on the short climb.

Tozan Railway at Mitake Mountain

Mitake Tozan Railway is the name of the company, under the Keio Group, that operates the cable car and the chairlift at Mount Mitake near Ome. The Mount Mitake Cable Car run on a one kilometer track (0.6 miles), but it rises an impressive 424 meters (1,390 feet) vertically. The cost for a one way trip is about 600 Yen, with a slight discount for a round trip ticket. The station t the base of the mountain is called Takimoto, while the upper station is Mitake-san. The Mitake-san Station area has a few small restaurants and shops, vending machines, restrooms and an overlook that offers views of Tokyo on a clear day. From the upper station, it is a 20-30 minute walk to Mitake Shrine near the top of the mountain. Parking at the base of the cable car is about 1,000 Yen per-day.

Nanayo Water Falls 

Nanayo Water Fall (in Japanese 七代の滝) is a nice series of falls just a short hike from the top of Mount Mitake near Ome. People says there are seven total drops in these falls, totaling 50 feet from top to bottom, but you can only see one drop easily from the hiking trails. At this drop in Nanayo Falls, there is a pool, secluded behind boulders where you can dip your feet in the cold water, or even cool down a beer before enjoying it at the base of the falls. To get to Nanayo Water Fall, take the cable car to the top. Walk through the village toward the Mitake Temple. Just before the temple, turn left, and follow the busy trail for just a few minutes until you arrive at a small picnic area and restaurant. Take the small trail down the steep steps to the left, and you will arrive at the falls in about 20-30 minutes. Both trails to the falls are steep and a bit treacherous.

Japanese Weasel at Okutama Area's 

Japanese weasels are small orange-yellow colored carnivorous animals native to the Japanese islands of Honshu, Kyushu and Shikoku. These animals are larger than cats, with a body length of about 14 inches, plus a tail that is another 7 or 8 inches long. These animals are carnivorous, and they consume mice, frogs, reptiles, insects and crayfish.

While on a drive in the Okutama area, we were on a small back road heading toward Mt Takanosu. The section of road we were driving on was next to a steep hillside covered in a metal screen to prevent rocks from falling on the road. Suddenly we saw a weasel try to duck under the metal mesh, but it realized that it wouldn't fit behind the screen, so it scrambled back out, on the side of the screen next to the road, and climbed the screen to safety.

Lake of Okutama 

Lake Okutama, formed by Ogochi Dam, lies at the far western edge of Tokyo in the town of Okutama, Nishitama District. The large lake was constructed from 1938 to 1957, and it is the largest source of water for the city of Tokyo. At the time of its completion the Ogochi Dam was the world's largest, with a dam height of 149 meters and a length of 353 meters. The construction of the dam displaced 6,000 people and submerged nine shrines, which were replaced by Ogouchi-jinja Shrine, located on a peninsula jutting into the lake.

The north shore of the lake is famous for its Some 10,000 cherry trees which bloom during mid-April each year. The lake is accessible by car from Tokyo with a two hour drive. You can also take the Chuo Line JR train to Tachikawa, then switch to the Ome Line to Okutama or a number of other stations near the lake. 

The modern side of Tokyo has its attractions, but how about adding to your trip Okutama? After spending an exciting time shopping and sightseeing in downtown Tokyo, a few days in the therapeutic forest of Okutama will do the trick refreshing you in and out.