Kamikochi seems worlds away from the urban sprawl most people associate with Japan. The air is fresh, the waters crystal clear, and the mountains majestic. The name can mean “high above earth” or “where the gods descended” and is apt both literally and figuratively. Located a little less than two hours from either Matsumoto or Takayama (both worthy of a visit), makes it a comfortable escape and return to the wild. Due to the increasing popularity of the national park, private vehicles are no longer allowed inside the resort, meaning the only means of vehicular access is limited to either bus or sanctioned taxis. This is more of a blessing than an inconvenience for those basking in the peacefulness of what many refer to as their favorite place in Japan.
In the Japanese Shinto religion mountains are considered sacred and, as such, have been revered and respected long before mountain climbing came to be thought of as “sport”. In fact, Japan still has many religious ceremonies which include climbing to the tops of sacred peaks for spiritual benefit. However, nowadays mountaineering in Japan is hugely popular and Kamikochi is considered hallowed ground to Japan’s serious mountain climbers. Anybody who has had the pleasure of climbing Mount Fuji in mid-summer surely understands just how fond the Japanese are to don a shiny new North Face jacket and head up a mountain with a few hundred of their closest friends. Mountain climbing has even recently made it’s manga debut in the massively popular 岳 (Gaku), which just happens to be set to the backdrop of Kamikochi.
At the bus terminal, there is a tourist information center where visitors can purchase pocket-sized maps of the area for 100 yen. There is also a rest area where you can plan your route while enjoying refreshments from one of the many nearby shops. Those who need a toilet are encouraged to show their appreciation for cleanliness by placing a tip in a box with a note stating the average amount is 100 yen. There are about seven other equally clean toilets scattered throughout the park that deny you this privilege, forcing the use of their facilities for free. Walking towards the azure waters of the Azusa River, it’s easy to see Kappabashi (not to be confused with the popular “Kitchen Town” in Tokyo), the most famous bridge in the area, and a popular landmark where many visitors like to take pictures. The view from there of the nearby mountains towering above is, in a word, stunning. Both sides of the bridge offer a number of accommodation and refreshment options.
This popular destination has seen many changes over the years. Even the kanji used to write Kamikochi have evolved over the years; 神河内、神合地、神降地、and finally 上高地. Tourists used to flock here by the thousands, driving their own cars in to the national park and parking just about anywhere they could, but now all car travel in to Kamikochi is restricted and travellers these days make their way by taxi or bus. This leaves nature free from the burden of hundreds of Toyotas coming through every day and also keeps the number of tourists down, especially overnighters.
A relaxed half-hour walk downstream brings you to the Hotaka and Tashiro bridges, which are joined by a small island. Another twenty minutes or so from there, either by a river or forest path, brings you to Taisho Pond, which was formed when nearby Mount Yake, an active volcano, erupted in 1915. The ever-present smoke plume coming out the top can serve as a reminder to be respectful of nature, especially in its most pristine state. Speaking of which, visitors are expected to leave only footprints, bringing all trash home with them (most opt for a rubbish bin in the nearest major town, but some, like my roommate, actually do maintain an impressive alter to the god of refuse in their house).
Myojinbashi is the next bridge upstream from Kappabashi, and can be reached in about an hour by either a boardwalk across marshes and streams on the north side of the river, or via a footpath through a campsite with toilets on the south side. Keep your eyes open for macaques. Nearby Myojin Pond (entry ¥300) is a must-see. There are rest areas either side of the bridge with toilets and refreshments available. Another hour or so upstream, on the south side, is a grassy meadow dotted with elm trees. This used to be a pasture, but is now Tokusawa campsite. There are more lodging, toilet and refreshment opportunities here as well. For day-trippers, this would be a good place to turn around and head back to the bus terminal. Serious hikers staying in the area will want to continue on a few hours to the peaks.
Standing on Kamikochi’s famous Kappa Bridge and seeing a range of 3000 metre tall mountains is nothing short of awe inspiring, but mountains aren’t the only thing that Kamikochi has to offer. In the eerily calm of nearby Taisho Lake stands the withered remains of trees that survive from the 1915 volcanic blast that plugged up part of the Azusa River and formed this very pond. Equally exciting is walking through the dense forests on one of Kamikochi’s many footpaths, which will almost guarantee a visit from some of the region’s wildlife, including the popular Japanese macaque. And for anyone who does manage a bit of walking during their visit here, there are few things better than a dip in an onsen (Japanese hot spring) after a long hike!
There is plenty of gorgeous scenery to be enjoyed by all fitness levels, making Kamikochi a fantastic destination for all age groups. The usual outdoor common sense applies (stay on paths, don’t feed wildlings). Dressing in layers with waterproof gear is recommended as the weather can change from a warm sunny day to hail in a couple hours.
No comments:
Post a Comment